Travels with Rhea

The route

82 days, about 13,900 miles, three legs. The first leg runs on fixed dates; after Seattle the plan stretches, and a few parks are still maybes.

Days ahead show the region and a rough window. Campgrounds and exact dates appear once the night is over.

TWR1 East & North · Long Island's East End NY to Seattle WA · about 5,150 mi
DayWhenWhereMiNight
around Oct 1 to 2Stowe, VT
via Cross Sound Ferry, Orient Point and New London
1 night
around Oct 2 to 3White Mountains, NH
via Kancamagus Highway (NH-112)
1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 3 to 5Acadia National Park
via US-2 across western Maine
1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 2 to 4Freeport, ME1 night
around Oct 8 to 10Catskills, NY
via NY-23A through Kaaterskill Clove
1 night
around Oct 7 to 10Finger Lakes, NY
via NY-23A and NY-23 west over the Catskills
1 nightdogs: partial
around Oct 10 to 12Niagara, NY
via NY-89 up the west shore of Cayuga Lake, Great Lakes Seaway Trail (NY-18) along Lake Ontario
1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 11 to 12East Tawas, MI1 night
around Oct 12 to 14Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
via M-77 through Seney and H-58 into Pictured Rocks, Mackinac Bridge, US-2 along the Lake Michigan shore
1 nightdogs: partial
around Oct 13 to 14MN North Shore
via H-58 through Pictured Rocks to Munising, MN-61 North Shore, Two Harbors to Silver Bay
1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 12 to 16Grand Marais, MN float day
via MN-61 North Shore, Silver Bay to Grand Marais
2 nightsdogs: yes
around Oct 15 to 18Bemidji, MN
via Superior National Forest Scenic Byway, Silver Bay to Hoyt Lakes
1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 16 to 17Theodore Roosevelt National Park1 nightdogs: no
around Oct 16 to 19Little Bighorn
via Theodore Roosevelt NP South Unit Scenic Loop Drive
1 nightdogs: partial
around Oct 17 to 19Paradise Valley, MT1 nightdogs: partial
around Oct 19 to 22Yellowstone National Park1 nightdogs: no
around Oct 21 to 23Seeley Lake, MT1 night
around Oct 22 to 23Spokane, WA
via International Selkirk Loop: Bonners Ferry to Sandpoint to Newport
1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 22 to 24Seattle, WA
via US-2 over Stevens Pass via Leavenworth
2 nightsdogs: yes
TWR2 Pacific · Seattle WA to Los Angeles CA · about 2,530 mi
DayWhenWhereMiNight
around Oct 24 to 30Olympic National Park flexible
via Whidbey Island and Deception Pass
via Hurricane Ridge Road, US-101 along Lake Crescent
via US-101 coastal stretch past Ruby Beach, Upper Hoh Road to the Hoh Rain Forest
3 nightsdogs: yes
around Oct 26 to 29Astoria, OR flexible
via Astoria-Megler Bridge over the Columbia, US-101 along Willapa Bay, Cape Disappointment and the Ilwaco headland
1 night
around Oct 28 to 31Hood River, OR flexible
via Historic Columbia River Highway
1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 27 to Nov 1Bend, OR flexible1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 30 to Nov 3Crater Lake National Park flexible
via Crater Lake Rim Drive
1 nightdogs: partial
around Oct 29 to Nov 3Florence, OR flexible
via Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway (OR-230 / OR-138)
1 nightdogs: yes
around Oct 30 to Nov 4Bandon, OR flexible1 nightdogs: yes
around Nov 1 to 7Brookings, OR float day
via Samuel H. Boardman Scenic Corridor, US-101 Port Orford to Gold Beach, Bandon Beach Loop Road
2 nightsdogs: yes
around Nov 2 to 7Redwood National Park flexible1 nightdogs: yes
around Nov 4 to 8Lost Coast, CA float day
via Avenue of the Giants, Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway
2 nightsdogs: no
around Nov 5 to 10Mendocino, CA flexible
via CA-1 from Leggett over the ridge to Mendocino
1 night
around Nov 6 to 10Point Reyes National Seashore flexible
via CA-1 down the Mendocino coast, CA-1 Sonoma Coast, Jenner to Tomales Bay
1 nightdogs: partial
around Nov 8 to 13San Mateo, CA flexible
via CA-1 past Bolinas Lagoon, Stinson Beach and Muir Beach, CA-1 through Pacifica and the Devil's Slide tunnels, Marin Headlands (Conzelman Road), Sir Francis Drake Boulevard to the Point Reyes Lighthouse
1 night
around Nov 9 to 12Big Sur, CA flexible
via CA-1 Big Sur, Carmel to Pfeiffer, 17-Mile Drive, Pebble Beach
1 nightdogs: no
around Nov 11 to 14Yosemite NP maybe
Pure choice - no weather gate. Valley is open year-round.
+2 days
around Nov 11 to 15Pismo Beach, CA flexible
via CA-1 Big Sur, Pfeiffer to San Simeon, CA-1 Cambria to Morro Bay
1 nightdogs: partial
around Nov 12 to 17Los Angeles, CA flexible
via Pacific Coast Highway, Point Mugu to Santa Monica, CA-154 San Marcos Pass
2 nightsdogs: yes
TWR3 Southwest & South · Los Angeles CA to home · about 6,240 mi
DayWhenWhereMiNight
around Nov 14 to 18Lone Pine, CA flexible
via Movie Road through the Alabama Hills, US-395 up the Owens Valley, CA-14 through Red Rock Canyon
1 nightdogs: yes
around Nov 13 to 18Death Valley National Park flexible
via CA-190 over Father Crowley Point, Panamint Valley and Towne Pass
2 nightsdogs: no
around Nov 16 to 20Zion National Park flexible
via Valley of Fire Highway
2 nightsdogs: partial
around Nov 19 to 22Bryce Canyon National Park flexible
via Bryce Canyon Scenic Drive to Rainbow Point, Scenic Byway 12 through Red Canyon, Zion-Mount Carmel Highway through the tunnel, US-89 up Long Valley
1 nightdogs: partial
around Nov 20 to 25Scenic Byway 12 / Escalante float day2 nightsdogs: yes
around Nov 22 to 26Moab, UT flexible
via UT-24 through Capitol Reef and Caineville
1 nightdogs: no
around Nov 22 to 27Kayenta, AZ flexible1 night
around Nov 24 to 28Grand Canyon (S Rim), AZ flexible
via Desert View Drive
2 nightsdogs: partial
around Nov 24 to 29Holbrook, AZ flexible
via Petrified Forest National Park Road
1 nightdogs: yes
around Nov 26 to 30Santa Fe, NM flexible
via Turquoise Trail (NM-14)
2 nightsdogs: yes
around Nov 29 to Dec 2Great Sand Dunes NP maybe
Snow at 8,200 ft in mid-Nov, AND your float-day budget at Santa Fe.
+2 days
around Nov 28 to Dec 4White Sands National Park float day
via Billy the Kid Trail through Capitan, Lincoln and Ruidoso
2 nightsdogs: yes
around Nov 30 to Dec 5Carlsbad + Guadalupe flexible
via US-82 over the Sacramento Mountains via Cloudcroft
1 nightdogs: no
around Dec 2 to 6Marfa, TX flexible
via Davis Mountains Scenic Loop (TX-118) via McDonald Observatory
1 nightdogs: no
around Dec 3 to 8Big Bend National Park float day
via FM-170 River Road, Presidio to Lajitas
2 nightsdogs: no
around Dec 4 to 8Presidio, TX float day
via FM-170 River Road from Lajitas to the Big Hill
2 nights
around Dec 7 to 10Fort Stockton / Ozona, TX flexible
via TX-118 from Study Butte to Alpine
1 night
around Dec 8 to 13Hill Country, TX float day2 nightsdogs: yes
around Dec 9 to 12Houston area, TX flexible
via US-290 Wine Road through Stonewall and Johnson City
1 nightdogs: yes
around Dec 11 to 15New Orleans, LA flexible2 nights
around Dec 11 to 15Birmingham / Meridian, AL flexible1 night
around Dec 14 to 19Great Smoky Mtns, TN float day
via Foothills Parkway West over Look Rock
2 nightsdogs: partial
around Dec 14 to 19Blue Ridge Pkwy, NC flexible
via Blue Ridge Parkway, Cherokee (MP 469) to Mount Pisgah (MP 408), Newfound Gap Road (US-441) and Little River Road
1 nightdogs: yes
around Dec 15 to 19Blowing Rock, NC flexible
via Blue Ridge Parkway, Linville Falls (MP 317) to Blowing Rock (MP 292) via the Linn Cove Viaduct
1 nightdogs: yes
around Dec 17 to 20Shenandoah National Park flexible
via Blue Ridge Parkway, Blowing Rock to the Virginia line via Doughton Park
1 nightdogs: yes
around Dec 18 to 23Front Royal / north VA flexible1 nightdogs: yes

How the route has changed

  • Sep 28: added Freeport, ME; dropped Katahdin Woods and Waters.
  • Sep 28: added Hood River, OR, Bend, OR, Crater Lake National Park, Lone Pine, CA, Moab, UT, Kayenta, AZ; dropped Tillamook, OR, Newport, OR, Prairie Creek, CA.
  • Sep 28: added Stowe, VT, White Mountains, NH, Katahdin Woods and Waters, Acadia National Park, Little Bighorn, Paradise Valley, MT, Yellowstone National Park, Seeley Lake, MT, San Mateo, CA, Scenic Byway 12 / Escalante; dropped Glasgow, MT, Glacier National Park, Half Moon Bay, CA; now 82 days.

Fall color along the road

Every place on the route with a fall-color reputation, when it usually peaks, and what we expect to find when we get there. Each window says what it rests on: a 2026 report from the ground, a 2026 forecast, or a typical year where nobody has published a 2026 call. 33 of the 41 places here have a 2026 source. Windows last checked Sep 27. The same dots are on the map, colored for the day we pass.

PlacePeak window, and its sourceWhen we passStage
Stowe and the Mount Mansfield ridge
VT · Sugar maples
Sep 30 to Oct 92026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 1 to 2peak color
White Mountains and the Kancamagus
NH · Maples, birch
Oct 1 to Oct 112026 ground report, Sep 25around Oct 2 to 3peak color
Western Maine, US-2
ME · Maples, birch
Sep 30 to Oct 82026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 3 to 5peak color
Acadia and Mount Desert Island
ME · Maples, birch, blueberry barrens
Oct 8 to Oct 202026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 3 to 5turning
Catskills
NY · Maples, oaks
Oct 5 to Oct 152026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 8 to 10peak color
Finger Lakes
NY · Maples, oaks, vineyards
Oct 12 to Oct 242026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 7 to 10turning
Niagara and the Lake Ontario shore
NY · Maples, oaks
Oct 15 to Oct 282026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 10 to 12turning
Southern Ontario, 401 corridor
ON · Maples
Oct 10 to Oct 212026 forecast, Sep 26around Oct 11 to 12peak color
Lake Huron shore, Tawas
MI · Maples, aspen, oaks
Oct 8 to Oct 212026 forecast, Sep 23around Oct 11 to 12peak color
Mackinac and the eastern Upper Peninsula
MI · Maples, aspen
Oct 6 to Oct 162026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 12 to 14peak color
Pictured Rocks and Munising
MI · Maples, birch, aspen
Oct 1 to Oct 142026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 12 to 14peak color
Minnesota North Shore
MN · Maples inland, then birch and aspen on the shore
Oct 1 to Oct 122026 ground report, Sep 24around Oct 13 to 14past peak, fading
Grand Marais and the Gunflint
MN · Maples, birch, aspen, tamarack
Sep 30 to Oct 102026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 12 to 16past peak, fading
Mississippi headwaters
MN · Maples, aspen, tamarack
Sep 29 to Oct 92026 ground report, Sep 23around Oct 15 to 18past peak, fading
Theodore Roosevelt, Little Missouri cottonwoods
ND · Cottonwoods, ash
Oct 1 to Oct 122026 forecastaround Oct 16 to 17past peak, fading
Little Bighorn and the Bighorn River
MT · Cottonwoods
Oct 7 to Oct 212026 forecast, Sep 27around Oct 16 to 19peak color
Paradise Valley and Livingston
MT · Cottonwoods along the Yellowstone
Sep 30 to Oct 132026 forecast, Sep 27around Oct 17 to 19past peak, fading
Yellowstone north entrance and the Gardner River
MT · Aspens, cottonwoods
Sep 25 to Oct 82026 forecast, Sep 27around Oct 17 to 19mostly down
Bozeman and the Gallatin
MT · Cottonwoods, aspens
Sep 28 to Oct 122026 forecast, Sep 27around Oct 17 to 19past peak, fading
Seeley-Swan Valley, MT-83
MT · Western larch (gold needles)
Oct 10 to Oct 25typical yeararound Oct 21 to 23peak color
Spokane and Coeur d'Alene
WA · Maples in town, larch and aspen in the hills
Oct 10 to Oct 25typical yeararound Oct 22 to 23peak color
Snoqualmie Pass and the Cascade foothills
WA · Vine maple, bigleaf maple, a few larch high up
Oct 1 to Oct 202026 forecast, Sep 27around Oct 22 to 24past peak, fading
Seattle, the Arboretum and Japanese Garden
WA · Japanese maples, ginkgo
Oct 15 to Nov 5typical yeararound Oct 22 to 24peak color
Olympic Peninsula rain forests
WA · Bigleaf maple and vine maple in the rain forest
Oct 8 to Oct 302026 forecast, Sep 27around Oct 24 to 30peak color
Astoria and the lower Columbia
OR · Bigleaf maple, alder
Oct 12 to Nov 2typical yeararound Oct 26 to 29peak color
Oregon coast, Newport to Bandon
OR · Bigleaf maple in the coast range; the shore itself stays green
Oct 15 to Nov 52026 forecast, Sep 27around Oct 29 to Nov 3peak color
Redwoods and the Avenue of the Giants
CA · Bigleaf maple under the redwoods
Oct 25 to Nov 152026 forecast, Sep 27around Nov 4 to 8peak color
Zion Canyon, the Virgin River
UT · Cottonwoods, boxelder, maples up the side canyons
Oct 28 to Nov 15typical yeararound Nov 16 to 20past peak, fading
Bryce Canyon aspens
UT · Aspens at 8,000 to 9,000 ft
Sep 26 to Oct 92026 forecast, Sep 27around Nov 19 to 22mostly down
Scenic Byway 12 and Calf Creek
UT · Cottonwoods in the canyons; aspens on Boulder Mountain go in September
Oct 20 to Nov 6typical yeararound Nov 19 to 22mostly down
Grand Canyon South Rim
AZ · Gambel oak, a few aspens
Oct 8 to Oct 242026 forecast, Sep 27around Nov 24 to 28mostly down
Santa Fe, Aspen Vista and the Rio Grande bosque
NM · Aspens above town in late September; bosque cottonwoods in November
Oct 28 to Nov 15typical yeararound Nov 26 to 30mostly down
McKittrick Canyon, Guadalupe Mountains
TX · Bigtooth maples (no dogs on the trail)
Oct 24 to Nov 82026 forecast, Sep 27around Nov 30 to Dec 5mostly down
Big Bend, Rio Grande cottonwoods
TX · Cottonwoods at Rio Grande Village; the desert stays desert
Nov 10 to Nov 252026 forecast, Sep 27around Dec 3 to 8past peak, fading
Lost Maples and the Hill Country
TX · Bigtooth maples
Nov 1 to Nov 18typical yeararound Dec 8 to 13mostly down
Smokies, Newfound Gap and Clingmans Dome
TN · Maples, birch, beech above 4,000 ft
Oct 10 to Oct 252026 forecast, Sep 27around Dec 14 to 19mostly down
Smokies, the low coves and valleys
TN · Oaks, hickory, maples in the coves
Oct 24 to Nov 82026 forecast, Sep 27around Dec 14 to 19mostly down
Blue Ridge Parkway south, near Asheville
NC · Oaks, maples
Oct 15 to Oct 312026 ground report, Sep 25around Dec 14 to 19mostly down
Blue Ridge Parkway, Blowing Rock
NC · Oaks, maples
Oct 18 to Nov 12026 ground report, Sep 25around Dec 15 to 19mostly down
Shenandoah, Skyline Drive
VA · Oaks, hickory, maples
Oct 13 to Oct 272026 forecast, Sep 27around Dec 17 to 20mostly down
Front Royal and northern Virginia
VA · Oaks, tulip poplar
Oct 20 to Nov 32026 forecast, Sep 27around Dec 17 to 20mostly down
The nationwide prediction map (SmokyMountains.com)

County by county, week by week, from NOAA history and the season's weather. Their estimate, embedded from smokymountains.com.

Every page the windows cite

Dark skies along the road

There are 152 certified dark-sky places in the United States, and all of them are on the map. These are the ones the route passes or comes close to, with the moon on the nights we're nearby. The moon figures are estimates for the evening, and for nights still ahead they cover the whole rough date window.

PlaceDesignationWhen we passMoon
AMC Maine Woods
ME
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 3 to 5
a detour
22 to 41%
dark until the moon rises around midnight to little or no moon
Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument
ME · national park unit
Dark Sky Sanctuaryaround Oct 3 to 5
a detour
22 to 41%
dark until the moon rises around midnight to little or no moon
Cherry Springs
PA
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 7 to 10
a detour
0 to 7%
little or no moon
Lake Hudson Recreation Area
MI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 11 to 12
a detour
2 to 7%
little or no moon
Port Crescent
MI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 11 to 12
on the route
2 to 7%
little or no moon
Beaver Island State Wildlife Research Area
MI
Dark Sky Sanctuaryaround Oct 12 to 14
a short detour
7 to 21%
little or no moon
Dark Sky Coast
MI
State dark sky preservearound Oct 12 to 14
on the route
7 to 21%
little or no moon
Headlands
MI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 12 to 14
on the route
7 to 21%
little or no moon
Negwegon
MI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 12 to 14
on the route
7 to 21%
little or no moon
Rockport
MI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 12 to 14
a short detour
7 to 21%
little or no moon
Thompson's Harbor State Park
MI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 12 to 14
a short detour
7 to 21%
little or no moon
Wilderness State Park
MI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 12 to 14
on the route
7 to 21%
little or no moon
Boundary Waters Canoe Area
MN
Dark Sky Sanctuaryaround Oct 13 to 14
a short detour
13 to 21%
little or no moon
Keweenaw
MI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 13 to 14
a detour
13 to 21%
little or no moon
Newport State Park
WI
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 13 to 14
a detour
13 to 21%
little or no moon
Voyageurs National Park
MN · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 15 to 18
a detour
30 to 61%
the moon sets in the evening to the moon sets around midnight
Medicine Rock State Park
MT
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 16 to 19
a detour
40 to 71%
the moon sets around midnight
Glacier National Park
MT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 22 to 23
a short detour
94 to 98%
the moon is up most of the night
Lost Trail National Wildlife Refuge
MT
Dark Sky Sanctuaryaround Oct 22 to 23
on the route
94 to 98%
the moon is up most of the night
Goldendale Observatory
WA
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 28 to 31
on the route
57 to 85%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Prineville Reservoir State Park
OR
Dark Sky Parkaround Oct 27 to Nov 1
on the route
47 to 92%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Oregon Outback
OR
Dark Sky Sanctuaryaround Oct 30 to Nov 3
a detour
26 to 68%
dark until the moon rises around midnight to dark until the moon rises before dawn
Death Valley National Park
CA · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 13 to 18
on the route
24 to 75%
little or no moon to the moon sets in the evening
Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument
AZ
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 16 to 20
a short detour
55 to 91%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Pipe Spring National Monument
AZ · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 16 to 20
on the route
55 to 91%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Springdale
UT
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 16 to 20
on the route
55 to 91%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Thunder Mountain Pootsee Nightsky
AZ
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 16 to 20
on the route
55 to 91%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Zion National Park
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 16 to 20
on the route
55 to 91%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Bryce Canyon National Park
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 19 to 22
on the route
83 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night
Cedar Breaks National Monument
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 19 to 22
on the route
83 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night
Kodachrome Basin State Park
UT
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 19 to 22
on the route
83 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night
Arches National Park
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 26
on the route
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
CO · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 26
a detour
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Canyonlands
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 26
on the route
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Capitol Reef National Park
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 26
on the route
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Castle Valley
UT
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 22 to 26
on the route
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Dead Horse Point State Park
UT
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 26
on the route
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Fremont Indian State Park
UT
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 26
a short detour
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Goblin Valley State Park
UT
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 26
on the route
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Helper
UT
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 22 to 26
a short detour
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Moab
UT
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 22 to 26
on the route
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Torrey
UT
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 22 to 26
on the route
90 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Goosenecks State Park
UT
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 27
on the route
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Hovenweep National Monument
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 27
on the route
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Mesa Verde National Park
CO · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 27
a short detour
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Natural Bridges National Monument
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 27
on the route
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Norwood
CO
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 22 to 27
a short detour
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Nucla-Naturita
CO
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 22 to 27
a short detour
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Rainbow Bridge
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 27
a short detour
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Ridgway
CO
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 22 to 27
a detour
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Top of the Pines
CO
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 22 to 27
a detour
82 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Grand Canyon National Park
AZ · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 24 to 28
on the route
74 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Big Park/Village of Oak Creek
AZ
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 24 to 29
a short detour
64 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Camp Verde
AZ
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 24 to 29
a short detour
64 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Flagstaff
AZ
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 24 to 29
on the route
64 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Flagstaff Area National Monuments
AZ · national park unit
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 24 to 29
on the route
64 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Petrified Forest National Park
AZ · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 24 to 29
on the route
64 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Sedona
AZ
Dark Sky Communityaround Nov 24 to 29
on the route
64 to 99%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Chaco Culture National Historical Park
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 26 to 30
a short detour
53 to 90%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
El Morro National Monument
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 26 to 30
on the route
53 to 90%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Fort Union National Monument
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 26 to 30
a short detour
53 to 90%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Valle de Oro National Wildlife Refuge
NM
Urban Night Sky Placearound Nov 26 to 30
on the route
53 to 90%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Valles Caldera National Preserve
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 26 to 30
on the route
53 to 90%
the moon is up most of the night to dark until the moon rises around midnight
Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Nov 28 to Dec 4
on the route
15 to 74%
dark until the moon rises around midnight to little or no moon
Big Bend National Park
TX · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 3 to 8
on the route
0 to 23%
little or no moon
Black Gap Wildlife Management Area
TX
Dark Sky Sanctuaryaround Dec 3 to 8
on the route
0 to 23%
little or no moon
Greater Big Bend
TX
Dark Sky Reservearound Dec 7 to 10
on the route
0 to 5%
little or no moon
Devil's River State Natural Area
TX
Dark Sky Sanctuaryaround Dec 8 to 13
a short detour
0 to 27%
little or no moon to the moon sets in the evening
Enchanted Rock
TX
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 8 to 13
on the route
0 to 27%
little or no moon to the moon sets in the evening
Fredericksburg
TX
Dark Sky Communityaround Dec 8 to 13
on the route
0 to 27%
little or no moon to the moon sets in the evening
Horseshoe Bay
TX
Dark Sky Communityaround Dec 8 to 13
on the route
0 to 27%
little or no moon to the moon sets in the evening
South Llano River State Park
TX
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 8 to 13
on the route
0 to 27%
little or no moon to the moon sets in the evening
UBarU Camp and Retreat Center
TX
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 8 to 13
on the route
0 to 27%
little or no moon to the moon sets in the evening
Bee Cave
TX
Dark Sky Communityaround Dec 9 to 12
on the route
1 to 18%
little or no moon
Blanco
TX
Dark Sky Communityaround Dec 9 to 12
on the route
1 to 18%
little or no moon
Dripping Springs
TX
Dark Sky Communityaround Dec 9 to 12
on the route
1 to 18%
little or no moon
Jonestown
TX
Dark Sky Communityaround Dec 9 to 12
on the route
1 to 18%
little or no moon
Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park
TX · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 9 to 12
on the route
1 to 18%
little or no moon
Milton Reimers Ranch Park
TX
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 9 to 12
on the route
1 to 18%
little or no moon
Wimberley Valley
TX
Dark Sky Communityaround Dec 9 to 12
on the route
1 to 18%
little or no moon
Obed Wild and Scenic River
TN · national park unit
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 14 to 19
a short detour
36 to 85%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Pickett Civilian Conservation Corps Memorial State Park
TN
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 14 to 19
a detour
36 to 85%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Pisgah Astronomical Research Institute
NC
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 14 to 19
on the route
36 to 85%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Mayland Earth to Sky Park and Bare Dark Sky Observatory
NC
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 15 to 19
on the route
47 to 85%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
James River State Park
VA
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 17 to 20
a short detour
68 to 92%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Natural Bridge State Park
VA
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 17 to 20
on the route
68 to 92%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Staunton River State Park
VA
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 17 to 20
a detour
68 to 92%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Watoga State Park
WV
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 17 to 20
a short detour
68 to 92%
the moon sets around midnight to the moon is up most of the night
Rappahannock County Park
VA
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 18 to 23
on the route
77 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Sky Meadows State Park
VA
Dark Sky Parkaround Dec 18 to 23
on the route
77 to 100%
the moon is up most of the night
Where the list comes from

DarkSky International certifies these places. Its own list can't be read by a program, so this one is merged from copies of it plus news of recent certifications. It is complete through 2024 and partial for 2025 and 2026, so check DarkSky before planning around one.

The night sky at each stop

The moon at each stop: how much of it is lit, when it rises and sets, and how many hours of full darkness are left once twilight ends and the moon is down. Times are local and rounded to 15 minutes. For nights still ahead, every figure covers the stop's whole date window.

WhenWhereMoonMoonriseMoonsetFull darkness
around Oct 1 to 2Stowe, VT50 to 70% lit
waning
9:15 pm to 10:15 pmduring the day1 to 2 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 2 to 3White Mountains, NH40 to 60% lit
waning
10:15 pm to 11:30 pmduring the day2.5 to 3.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 3 to 5Acadia National Park20 to 50% lit
waning
11:15 pm to 1:45 amduring the day3.5 to 6 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 2 to 4Freeport, ME30 to 60% lit
waning
10:15 pm to 12:45 amduring the day2 to 5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 8 to 10Catskills, NY0 to 10% lit
near new
6 am to 7 am (in daylight some nights)during the dayabout 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Oct 7 to 10Finger Lakes, NY0 to 10% lit
near new
5 am to 6 am (in daylight some nights)during the day9 to 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Oct 10 to 12Niagara, NY0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the day6:45 pm to 7:15 pm (in daylight some nights)about 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Oct 11 to 12East Tawas, MI0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the day7 pm to 7:30 pmabout 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Oct 12 to 14Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore0 to 20% lit
waxing
during the day7:30 pm to 8:45 pmabout 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Oct 13 to 14MN North Shore10 to 20% lit
waxing
during the day7:15 pm to 8 pmabout 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Oct 12 to 16Grand Marais, MN0 to 40% lit
waxing
during the day6:45 pm to 9:30 pm8.5 to 9.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 15 to 18Bemidji, MN20 to 60% lit
waxing
during the day9 pm to 12 am6 to 9 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 16 to 17Theodore Roosevelt National Park30 to 50% lit
waxing
during the day9:30 pm to 10:30 pm7 to 8 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 16 to 19Little Bighorn30 to 70% lit
waxing
during the day9:45 pm to 1:15 am5 to 8 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 17 to 19Paradise Valley, MT40 to 70% lit
waxing
during the day11:15 pm to 1:30 am4.5 to 7 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 19 to 22Yellowstone National Park60 to 90% lit
waxing
during the day1:30 am to 5 am1.5 to 4.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 21 to 23Seeley Lake, MT80 to 100% lit
waxing
during the day3:45 am to 6:15 am0 to 2.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 22 to 23Spokane, WA80 to 100% lit
waxing
during the day4:15 am to 5:30 am0 to 1 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 22 to 24Seattle, WA80 to 100% lit
waxing
during the day4:45 am to 7:15 am0 to 1 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Oct 24 to 30Olympic National Park60 to 100% lit
near full
6:30 pm to 9:45 pm (in daylight some nights)7:15 am (in daylight some nights)0 to 2 hours
The moon is up most of the night
around Oct 26 to 29Astoria, OR70 to 100% lit
waning
6:45 pm to 8:30 pm (in daylight some nights)during the day0 to 1 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 28 to 31Hood River, OR50 to 90% lit
waning
7:30 pm to 11 pmduring the day0 to 3.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 27 to Nov 1Bend, OR40 to 100% lit
waning
6:45 pm to 11:30 pmduring the day0 to 5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 30 to Nov 3Crater Lake National Park20 to 70% lit
waning
10 pm to 2 amduring the day2.5 to 7.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 29 to Nov 3Florence, OR20 to 80% lit
waning
8:45 pm to 2 amduring the day1 to 7.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Oct 30 to Nov 4Bandon, OR10 to 70% lit
waning
10 pm to 3:15 amduring the day2.5 to 8.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Nov 1 to 7Brookings, OR0 to 50% lit
waning
11:45 pm to 6:30 amduring the day5 to 11 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Nov 2 to 7Redwood National Park0 to 40% lit
waning
1 am to 6:30 amduring the day6 to 11 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Nov 4 to 8Lost Coast, CA0 to 20% lit
near new
3:15 am to 6:30 am (in daylight some nights)during the day8.5 to 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Nov 5 to 10Mendocino, CA0 to 10% lit
near new
4:15 am to 6:30 am (in daylight some nights)5:45 pm (in daylight some nights)9.5 to 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Nov 6 to 10Point Reyes National Seashore0 to 10% lit
near new
5:15 am to 6:15 am (in daylight some nights)5:45 pm (in daylight some nights)about 10.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Nov 8 to 13San Mateo, CA0 to 30% lit
waxing
during the day5:45 pm to 8:15 pm (in daylight some nights)9 to 10.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Nov 9 to 12Big Sur, CA0 to 20% lit
waxing
during the day5:45 pm to 7:30 pm (in daylight some nights)10 to 10.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Nov 11 to 15Pismo Beach, CA0 to 40% lit
waxing
during the day6:30 pm to 10:15 pm7 to 10.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Nov 12 to 17Los Angeles, CA10 to 60% lit
waxing
during the day7:15 pm to 12 am5 to 9.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Nov 14 to 18Lone Pine, CA20 to 70% lit
waxing
during the day9 pm to 1 am4 to 8 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Nov 13 to 18Death Valley National Park20 to 70% lit
waxing
during the day8 pm to 1 am4 to 9 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Nov 16 to 20Zion National Park40 to 90% lit
waxing
during the day11:45 pm to 4 am2 to 6 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Nov 19 to 22Bryce Canyon National Park70 to 100% lit
waxing
during the day2:45 am to 6:15 am0 to 3 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Nov 20 to 25Scenic Byway 12 / Escalante80 to 100% lit
near full
6 pm (in daylight some nights)3:45 am to 6:15 am (in daylight some nights)0 to 2 hours
The moon is up most of the night
around Nov 22 to 26Moab, UT80 to 100% lit
near full
5:45 pm to 7 pm (in daylight some nights)6:15 am (in daylight some nights)0 to 0.5 hours
The moon is up most of the night
around Nov 22 to 27Kayenta, AZ80 to 100% lit
near full
6 pm to 8:30 pm (in daylight some nights)6 am (in daylight some nights)0 to 2 hours
The moon is up most of the night
around Nov 24 to 28Grand Canyon (S Rim), AZ70 to 100% lit
waning
6:15 pm to 9:45 pm (in daylight some nights)during the day0 to 3 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Nov 24 to 29Holbrook, AZ60 to 100% lit
waning
6 pm to 11 pm (in daylight some nights)during the day0 to 4.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Nov 26 to 30Santa Fe, NM40 to 90% lit
waning
7 pm to 11:45 pmduring the day0.5 to 5.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Nov 28 to Dec 4White Sands National Park10 to 80% lit
waning
9:30 pm to 3:45 amduring the day3 to 9.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Nov 30 to Dec 5Carlsbad + Guadalupe0 to 50% lit
waning
11:45 pm to 4:45 amduring the day5.5 to 10.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Dec 2 to 6Marfa, TX0 to 30% lit
waning
2:45 am to 6:30 amduring the day7.5 to 11 hours
Dark until the moon rises
around Dec 3 to 8Big Bend National Park0 to 30% lit
near new
3:30 am to 7:30 am (in daylight some nights)during the day8.5 to 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Dec 4 to 8Presidio, TX0 to 20% lit
near new
4:30 am to 7:30 am (in daylight some nights)during the day9 to 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Dec 7 to 10Fort Stockton / Ozona, TX0 to 10% lit
near new
7:30 am (in daylight some nights)6:15 pm to 7:15 pm (in daylight some nights)about 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Dec 8 to 13Hill Country, TX0 to 30% lit
waxing
during the day6 pm to 9:45 pm (in daylight some nights)8 to 11 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Dec 9 to 12Houston area, TX0 to 20% lit
waxing
during the day5:45 pm to 8:45 pm9 to 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
around Dec 11 to 15New Orleans, LA0 to 50% lit
waxing
during the day7:15 pm to 11 pm6.5 to 10 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Dec 11 to 15Birmingham / Meridian, AL0 to 50% lit
waxing
during the day7 pm to 10:45 pm6.5 to 10.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Dec 14 to 19Great Smoky Mtns, TN30 to 80% lit
waxing
during the day10:30 pm to 3:45 am2.5 to 7.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Dec 14 to 19Blue Ridge Pkwy, NC30 to 80% lit
waxing
during the day10:30 pm to 3:45 am2.5 to 7.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Dec 15 to 19Blowing Rock, NC30 to 80% lit
waxing
during the day11:15 pm to 3:45 am2.5 to 6.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Dec 17 to 20Shenandoah National Park50 to 90% lit
waxing
during the day1:15 am to 4:45 am1 to 4.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
around Dec 18 to 23Front Royal / north VA70 to 100% lit
near full
during the day2:15 am to 7:15 am (in daylight some nights)0 to 3.5 hours
The moon is up most of the night

Steinbeck's route, 1960

The dashed line on the map is Steinbeck's own loop, rebuilt from the book and later research. It's approximate: a literary route, not a GPS record. More on that.